Fancy, Tasty Grease At Fatty 'Cue

At a new Williamsburg spot, the meat gets smoked—but so does your wallet

Last but not least, the serious meat. Lamb ribs arrive crusty, unctuous, and musky, suck-on-the-bones good. Pork spare ribs shine, lacquered with smoked fish–palm syrup, a sweet-savory bomb. Fat-capped slices of brisket are juicy and languid, tucked into a steamy bao and dolloped with chile jam. Swabs of lamb practically jump with woodsy savor and garlic. These things are delicious. But they make you wish the lambs were the only ones getting fleeced.

The bar be 'cued—serving up the house drink special
Amelia Beamish
The bar be 'cued—serving up the house drink special

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