This week, I review Double Crown. I don’t understand restaurants like Double Crown where the food is beside the point, and supposedly everyone knows it. Or rather, I get it, but I think it’s snobbish and clubby. Because maybe you and I and everyone who reads the food media in New York already knows that Double Crown isn’t about the food, it’s about the (admittedly beautiful) design. But not every diner reads New York restaurant news (gasp!) and someone who is a little bit interested in trying a new restaurant for a special occasion might drop a whole lot of money on Double Crown’s mediocre food, just because he or she is not in on the joke.
And while most of the food is mediocre or just fine, some dishes are cynically bad—like the fluke with daal, which I seriously could not choke down.
Anyway, I’m feeling much less cranky this Obama morning, but I stand by the way I felt about Double Crown. There’s cleverness to spare here, and the entire menu sounds like it’s going to taste really, really good. So then when the food turns out to be an obvious afterthought, it just seems lazy. It’s got an actual chef, and you part with real money for a plate of food: it’s meant to be a restaurant, not a nudge-nudge-wink-wink “restaurant.”
Meanwhile, yes, the space is amazing, and just as impressive as you’ve heard. Go for a drink.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on November 5, 2008