This week, I review Bussaco, a restaurant in deepest Park Slope that serves what has come to be called NBC (New Brooklyn Cuisine). I find myself overly annoyed by this NBC coinage. But Bussaco (833 Union Street, Brooklyn) turns out to be a truly excellent restaurant, in no way coasting by on it’s eco-chic decor or trendy notions of NBC.
The crab chowder, just to pick one dish out of many delicious dishes, is absolutely packed, mounded to the rim of the bowl with jumbo lump crabmeat. It’s in a milky broth sprinkled with chives. Even better, homemade Old Bay crisps come on the side. Think of those crunchy, puffy Asian shrimp chips. These are modeled after those, but dusted with Old Bay and not flavored with shrimp. Their airy crunch is like Styrofoam, but in the best possible sense.
And not only is the food skillful, but the wine is expertly chosen (the owner is a master sommelier), and also affordable. Wines by the glass can be had for $7, but there are also 9 good bottles under $30, which shared between three or four people is extremely reasonable.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on November 26, 2008