Food

Dish No. 80: Hamburger at M. Wells in Long Island City, Queens

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The hamburger at M. Wells is really two.

Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, Fork in the Road’s handy list of some of our favorite dishes — old standbys and new finds alike — compiled daily.

Today’s pick: Hamburger ($12) at M. Wells.

M. Wells
21-17 49th Avenue
Long Island City, Queens
718-425-6917

M. Wells is the city’s kooky new diner, spawned by refugees from Montreal’s notorious palace of pig, Au Pied de Cochon. The menu has been developing gradually over the last few weeks, and the opening times of the antique diner are slowly extending. Call for current hours.

The hamburger is really a pair of scrumptious beef patties — cooked medium rare and still gloriously juicy inside while crusty and blackened on the exterior — deposited in a pair of steamed Chinese dumplings. The bun is vaguely Changish, isn’t it?

The burger(s) arrives topped with cukes, pickled carrots, bacon, and tomato, and there’s an orange, mayo-based spread served on the side. You don’t even need it.

Chantal Matineau chats with chef Hugue Dufour of M. Wells

Next: The entire countdown so far …

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Previously in the countdown:
Dish No. 100: Zaragoza Grocery’s Flor de Calabaza Quesadilla
Dish No. 99: No. 7 Sub Shop’s General Tso’s Tofu Sandwich
Dish No. 98: Nigerian Goat Stew From Baku
Dish No. 97: The Captain’s Daughter From Saltie
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Dish No. 93: The Terrine Board at the Breslin Bar and Dining Room
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Dish No. 89: Peanut Butter Pretzel Pie From First Prize Pies
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Dish No. 87: Katsudon at Ennju
Dish No. 86: Fried Chicken With Two Sides at Soul Fixins
Dish No. 85: Fried Lamb Intestines at El Quinto Pino
Dish No. 84: Kunafa From Nablus Sweets
Dish No. 83: Potato Flatbread at Sahadi’s
Dish No. 82: Chicken-Fried Chicken Livers at Cornbread Diner
Dish No. 81: Taleggio, Broccoli Rabe, and Sausage Panini at Bocca Lupo