See what NYC’s restaurant critics have been up to this week:
In the Voice, Robert Sietsema compares the Bronx and Flatiron locations of Zero Otto Nove: “With the exception of the pizzas — which are not quite as perfect due to the use of less wood in the oven — Manhattan proves it can furnish food every bit as great as that of the Bronx.”
Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite give three stars to the Toucan and the Lion: “The beef, as it turned out, was fresh and juicy; the bacon and cashew butter winningly juxtaposed the salty with the sweet; and the toasted bao bun had us rethinking our allegiance to the similarly squishy supermarket variety.”
Impressed by Kyo Ya’s seasonal cooking, Pete Wells awards the restaurant three stars: “It is easy in New York now to believe that eating ramps in April makes you an expert in seasonal cooking. As a meal at Kyo Ya will show, this is a little like believing that eating a tuna salad sandwich makes you a marine biologist. It’s a wide world out there.”
Gael Greene heads to Alain Ducasse’s Benoit for some “classic, not tricked-up” French cuisine.