Best Of

Best Wine Bar


A wine bar run by management that understands specialty coffee immediately scores points with discerning drinkers of both liquids. Put one on the board, then, for Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels: This summer, head sommelier Caleb Ganzer introduced a seasonal pop-up daytime café offering single-origin cold brew, optionally sweetened with concentrated grape must (used by Champagne producers) sourced from France. But the star here remains the wine, which patrons can sample by the glass or bottle while relaxing in well-appointed lounge areas draped in sensuous blue textiles — by far the city’s most stylish wine-drinking digs. To better complement the well-priced, European-heavy list, highlights of which include a smattering of affordable bubbles, CdVS re-evaluated its food program and hired Eric W. Bolyard. The Eleven Madison Park vet and Tasting Society chef/co-founder will deliver a seasonally driven, French-Mediterranean menu, finally aligning food quality with that of the beverage program. 249 Centre Street, Manhattan 10013, 212-343-3660,

This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 13, 2015

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