Last week we ventured to Sunset Park for an off-season taste of the Red Hook ball fields at La Asuncion. Today, we move from Mexico to Honduras to check out Suany Carcamo’s restaurant, Honduras Maya in South Slope. At the ball fields, the Carcamo stall is loved for its baleadas (most notably by Peter Meehan), so of course these were the focus of our visit.
In early afternoon, the place was dead empty. One woman seemed to account for the entire front- and back-of house staff on duty (perhaps this was Suany’s mother). She did not wince when we ordered the baleadas and the carne asada platter. She sang along with the radio, and disappeared for a bit into the kitchen. From there, we heard the slapping of the flour tortilla for our appetizer.
Two baleadas arrived smelling deliciously like pancakes that have been allowed to burn around the edges. Inside was a healthy smear of bean puree, some very funky grated cheese, and some salty crema. The tortilla was hot, thin, and offered a perfect chewy resistance to the teeth. Really, this was the perfect lunch, but then came the steak (salty, tangy with marinade), the plantains (sweet, oily), the rice (also oily), the slab of cheese (the same extremely funky stuff), and the salad (iceberg). The guy who had come in to chat and drink a beer said “You’re a healthy eater!” Why thank you.
587 Fifth Avenue
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 29, 2007