Of course, you never know what you’re going to find on the menu at Roman’s in Fort Greene, which is both part of its charm and a little disheartening. On a recent night, the market-driven menu featured — what else? — ramps, ramps, and more ramps.
There was a small plate of delicately roasted ramps served with toasted bread and fresh ricotta. Then, a second course of tagliatelle slicked with butter and ramps was quickly slurped up. But the star of the table’s show was surely a Pickled Ramp Martini ($10), served up. The drink was more reminiscent of a Gibson, which is essentially a martini with a pickled onion. The ramp made for a more savory, delicate version of the drink; the brine not too vinegary. We perceived a slight dirtiness there, which in martini terms may be taboo. But in this case, was right as rain.
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