Robert Sietsema at Osteria Cotta; Lauren Shockey at Ellabess


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema goes pan-Italian at Osteria Cotta: “It’s a type of restaurant you’d never see in Italy: There’s something on the menu for everyone, from almost every region of the country.” Lauren Shockey is less than thrilled with her visit to Ellabess: “The restaurant starts off promising. But it fizzles by the end, like the sprinter who thought he’d try his feet at a marathon.”

Sam Sifton approves of Coppelia, but finds Miss Lily’s a little too exclusive: “The beauty of Florent was that it was entirely comfortable being what it was: a greasy spoon with good food, welcoming to all. Coppelia honors that tradition. Miss Lily’s does not.”
[NY Times]

Meanwhile, Underground Gourmet had a better experience at Miss Lily’s: “So the service at Miss Lily’s is warm and efficient and the décor charming, but how’s the food, you ask? Thanks to chef (or, more accurately, ‘consulting executive chef’) Bradford Thompson, like everything else, it’s much better than expected.”
[NY Magazine]

Steve Cuozzo is charmed by RedFarm: “Everything about it is adorable, from a ‘farm-to-table’ look to dumplings with sesame-seed ‘eyes.’ … Of course, neither ‘adorable’ nor ‘buzzy’ means ‘perfect.’ Some dishes drift closer to the Rio Grande than the Yangtze, while others are more ordinary than smarty-pants presentation suggests.”
[NY Post]

Jay Cheshes raves over Tertulia: “[Seamus] Mullen, a great modern chef, offers an idealized spin on old-fashioned fare, featuring careful cooking and top-notch ingredients.”

Ryan Sutton finds a lot to love at Danji: “Every item is a small plate and meals can last under an hour. No dish exceeds $18. Our party of five ate well and drank well for $200.”

Gael Greene revisits Lincoln: “It is thrilling to watch a shy and insecure adolescent grow into her or his bones and emerge magnetic, an irresistible beauty. That’s what’s happened at Lincoln Ristorante. I’m asking myself if this is the best Italian restaurant in town.”
[Insatiable Critic]

Tables for Two didn’t mind the erratic service at Legend Bar & Restaurant: “If you simply shrug your shoulders when a dish ordered at another table arrives at yours (or vice versa) and you are braced for a long wait (thirty minutes, on a recent evening, before a beverage order was taken), you will be free to savor the food, which is well worth the journey.”
[New Yorker]