Pastrami Egg Roll from Eden Wok (43 East 34th Street, 212-725-8100)
You might think that Chinese food and kosher fare are complete opposites. Sure, Chinese cuisine does not rely heavily on milk, but pork is omnipresent — which is obvs a big no-no for followers of traditional Jewish dining laws.
Eden Wok bills itself as “the finest Glatt Kosher Chinese restaurant and sushi bar,” which does not sound like a very large subgenre of Chinese restaurants for comparison purposes, but whatevs.
Now Year of the Takeout did not realize this when we called in an order (call us observant reporters), but just thought it was kind of strange that porcine plates were completely absent from the menu. So YotT settled upon the $3.95 pastrami egg roll.
Thankfully, YotT didn’t let a grumpy Google review (“Nauseating. The food is just terrible”) get between us and our food.
And goddamn, the beefy app astounded. Hot and gooey — with not a shred of cabbage in sight — it was a fantastic cylinder of fry, filled with salty, stew-like meat and soft, white onion.
In terms of texture, the shell fell somewhere between yolky doughiness and bubbly levity, giving each bite an energetic, filling crunch.
No, this wasn’t “authentic” by any means, but it def didn’t give off a T.G.I. Friday’s vibe, as RedFarm’s approach is said to do.
There was only one thing wrong — YotT just ordered one.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on February 13, 2012