Food

Favorite Dishes #10: Bar Goto’s Okonomiyaki

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After nearly a decade entertaining thirsty patrons at some of the city’s swankiest and most-esteemed watering holes, barman Kenta Goto has finally struck out on his own. Years in the making, Bar Goto (245 Eldridge Street, 212-475-4411) showcases its owner’s talents with a selection of expressive and elegant cocktails. He infuses vodka with mushrooms for Bloody Marys and riffs on the Tom Collins using Calpico, a Japanese milk soda. Chef Kiyo Shinoki oversees the food menu, delivering lighter fare like yuzu-pepper pickles and celery treated with seaweed and sesame, as well as more recognizable bar fare including burdock root fries and miso-hot sauce chicken wings.

Chief among the kitchen’s offerings are Shinoki’s okonomiyaki, savory Japanese pancakes made with grated yam and cabbage and delivered in rectangular cast-iron skillets. The five highbrow flapjacks served here come in winning combinations like mushrooms and leeks, and chicken and pork belly. And while you can indulge in classic Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, griddled with a layer of yakisoba noodles in the batter (along with a satisfying mix of pork belly and rock shrimp), don’t miss out on the “Fisherman” and “Grilled Cheese” versions. The former adds an oceanic feast of octopus, calamari, and shrimp, while the latter melts together cheddar, Parmesan, and gruyere with lush, piquant sun-dried tomatoes.

Every pancake gets doused in Kewpie mayonnaise and tangy Worcestershire-like okonomiyaki sauce, and arrive with bowls of shaved bonito flakes and diced pickles meant for scattering across the top. It all amounts to some of the city’s most refined bar food and best drunk munchies; the pancakes simultaneously crisp, fluffy, and dense with hearty flavors.

In honor of our Best of New York City issue (available now!), the Village Voice has been combing the city every day, one dish at a time, to guide you to the most delicious food in NYC. These are our 100 Favorite Dishes for 2015, in no particular order, save for the top 10. To read about previous dishes, browse our 100 Favorite Dishes page.

Here’s our countdown up to now:

#100: Laminated Blueberry Brioche at Dominique Ansel Kitchen

#99: Egg Shop’s Golden Bucket Fried Chicken

#98: Ramen Lab’s Torigara Shoyu

#97: Cannoli at Ferdinando’s

#96: Breakfast Sandwich at Dimes

#95: Banana Royal at Eddie’s Sweet Shop

#94: Fletcher’s Burnt Ends

#93: Almayass’s Mante

#92: Empellon Taqueria’s Fish Taco

#91: El Rey’s Sardine Tostada

#90: General Tso’s Pig’s Head at the Cannibal

#89: The Vegetarian at Meat Hook Sandwich Shop

#88: The 21 Club’s Creamy Chicken Hash

#87: Deep-Fried Olives at Via Carota

#86: Pougi at Loi Estiatorio

#85: Shelsky’s Hot Pastrami Sandwich

#85: Pearl & Ash’s Smoked Bread with Chicken Butter

#84: Gluten-Free Pizza at Rossopomodoro

#83: Perry St’s Chocolate Pudding With Candied Violets

#82: Whit’s End’s ‘Fuckin’ Bluefish Dip’

#81: Morgenstern’s Salt and Pepper Pine Nut Ice Cream

#80: Levain Bakery’s Chocolate Chip Walnut Cookie

#79: Delmar Pizzeria’s Pizza

#78: Cafe Cluny’s Avocado Toast

#77: Brooklyn Star’s Cinnamon Bun

#76: Pork Belly Cotton Candy at Carnem

#75: Ippudo’s Pork Buns

#74: Mission Chinese Food’s Oil-Cured Anchovies

#73: Johnnycakes at LoLo’s Seafood Shack

#72: The Starving Artists Steak at Belle Reve

#71: The Spotted Pig’s Gnudi

#70: Xi’an Famous Foods’ Tiger Vegetable Salad

#69: Crème Brûlée Truffle at Kee’s Chocolates

#68: Pok Pok’s Muu Paa Kham Wong

#67: Cacio e Pepe at Upland

#66: Pulpo at Toro

#65: Junior’s Something Different

#64: Duck Carnitas at Cosme

#63: Banana Miso Ice Cream Sandwich at Neta

#62: Breads Bakery’s Chocolate Babka

#61: Braised Lamb Neck at the Gorbals

#60: Dough’s Passionfruit Doughnut

#59: Uncle Jesse Bao at Baohaus

#58: Patatas Bravas at El Colmado

#57: Lupulo’s Razor Clams

#56: Bar Masa’s Spicy Dancing Shrimp

#55: Underwest Donuts’ Halva

#54: The Virgola Platter at Virgola

#53: Noreetuh’s Monkfish Liver Torchon

#52: Amarena Cherry Merveilleux

#51: Roasted Mushrooms at Bara

#50: Fonda’s Oaxacan Black Mole Enchiladas

#49: Flinders Lane’s Lamb Rump

#48: Blue Ribbon Sushi’s Temaki Honnin

#47: Dirty French’s Chicken and Crepes

#46: The Vegetarian Combination at Zoma

#45: Merguez Sausage Flatbread at Irvington

#44: Le Grand Aioli at Marlow & Sons

#43: Shelsky’s Hot Pastrami Sandwich

#42: Hippie Banjo at Pies ‘n’ Thighs

#41: Malted Milkshake from Dizzy’s Diner

#40: Graffiti’s Graffiti Burger

#39: Beef Rolls at Kottu House

#38: Cafe Katja’s Wiener Schnitzel

#37: Norma’s Potato Pancakes

#36: Goat Milk Soft Serve at Victory Garden

#35: Okonomi’s Onsen Egg

#34: ‘Njuja Pizza at Obicà

#33: Paulaner Sausage Sampler

#32: Triple Chocolate Chunk Cookies at The Whitney

#31: Momofuku Ssäm Bar’s Dry Aged Rib Eye
#30: Bar Boulud’s Escargots Persillade

#29: Marta’s Roman-Style Pizza

#28: Untitled’s Roasted and Fried Chicken Salad

#27: Sweet Corn Goat Cheese Tamal at Confessional 

#26: Crispy Duck Necks at Trestle on Tenth

#25: Emily’s Emmy Burger 

#24: Manousheh’s Jibneh Manousheh

#23: Herbie’s International at Ivan Ramen

#22: Bhutanese Ema Datsi’s Namesake

#21: Lan Larb Soho’s Ba Mee

#20: Lobster Roll at Fairway Market
#19: Khinkali at We Are Georgians

#18: Doughnuttery’s Paris Time

#17: Eisenberg’s Patty Melt

#16: Gabriel Kreuther’s Virginia Quail

#15: L’Artusi’s Garganelli with Mushroom Ragu

#14: Rebelle’s Clafoutis

#13: Epaulettes at Vaucluse

#12: Wildair’s Georgia White Shrimp

#11: Trini-Gyul’s Doubles