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Best Indian Restaurant

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Located in the heart of Curry Hill, Pippali sets itself apart from the pack by offering well-executed modern dishes from various regions of India, rather than specializing in any one particular cuisine. The northeast-Indian bihari gohst, a marinated lamb shank in a savory-spicy onion, tomato, and ginger sauce, is tender enough to fall off the bone if you so much as glance at it. Hyderabadi influence shows up in the saffron-infused lagan ka murgh, a stuffed chicken roulade. The batak utthapam features pepper-rubbed duck with a portobello mushroom pancake, slightly thicker than a traditional dosa. The veggie dishes are just as satisfying, especially the jaipuri kofta — four robust, spongy dumplings made from chickpeas, spinach, and green pumpkin (which dominates the overall flavor) floating in a rich onion, ginger, and garlic masala. More standard fare like chicken tikka and lentil samosas are also expertly realized, while baskets of crisp, oil-brushed naan, speckled with garlic and parsley, transcend what it’d be wrong to think of as a simple side dish. Pippali presents the rare opportunity to tour the cooking traditions of India without venturing beyond the walls of a single establishment — an earthy, inviting one, in this case. 129 East 27th Street, Manhattan 10016, 212-689-1999, pippalinyc.com

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