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From a private, unassuming counter inside Harlem’s otherwise unprepossessing Jado Sushi, seasoned itamae Kunihide Nakajima serves stunning sliding-scale Edomae omakase ($70 for sushi only; around $140 for kaiseki-style omakase) dinners to eight guests at a time. The third-generation sushi chef, formerly of midtown power scene Sushiden, exclusively serves wild-caught fish sourced locally from the Tri-State area as well as imported via his family’s sushi shop in Tokyo. The fastidiousness benefits diners most of all, who are entertained by a parade of Japanese delicacies, from rarely seen nigiri like spotted halibut and Russian sea urchin to adventurous preparations of cod sperm, crab brains, fermented tuna belly, sea squirts, and squid that sits for a week in its own intestines. He rallies monumental flavors from a compelling juxtaposition of blowfish sashimi and creamy monkfish liver and cooks his vinegared rice according to a 67-year-old recipe. Also passed down from Kunihide’s grandfather: a secret technique for slow-simmering sea eel that yields as nuanced and meaty a piece of anago as any in town. 2118 Frederick Douglass Boulevard 10026, 212-866-2118, jadosushi.com

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