Dear Ms. Shockey,
I get that you don't get it, that you're a reviewer and you need a hook for your article; but given that most of your descriptions of the food left my mouth watering (and the food does in fact live up to that expectations based on my three visits), how can you give a bad review?
To me, this food's innovation is precisely in its simple and spot-on executions. What's more, the novelty you missed is all over the menu thriving in its subtlety. Take the acidly hot pepper that garnishes the sauerkraut with the pork chop, it's an unexpected twist that lends new complexity to what I view as a perfectly performed classic. Also the butterleaf and beet salad with its indulgently rich walnut dressing shines in its simplicity, a perfect send-off to summer and the fall nip comes off the Hudson.