Food

Dish No. 37: Okara at EN Japanese Brasserie

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​Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, Fork in the Road’s handy list of some of our favorite dishes — old standbys and new finds alike — compiled daily.

Today’s pick: Okara ($5) at EN Japanese Brasserie (435 Hudson Street, 212-647-9196).

Featured on the Banzai section of EN’s menu, okara is the high-fiber pulp that remains when puréed soy beans are filtered during soy-milk production. In theory, it’s not particularly appetizing, but at EN, it’s delicious. Braised in shoyu and shot through with tender bits of shiitake mushrooms, carrots, and snow peas, the okara has a crumbly, slightly spongy texture, a bit like overcooked couscous. Its warm, round flavor is both slightly sweet and, thanks to the shoyu, just salty enough. Comforting as porridge, it’s the sort of humble, thoughtful dish that epitomizes good home cooking.

Next:Chew over all the dishes so far …
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Previously in the countdown:
Dish No. 100: Zaragoza Grocery’s Flor de Calabaza Quesadilla
Dish No. 99: No. 7 Sub Shop’s General Tso’s Tofu Sandwich
Dish No. 98: Nigerian Goat Stew From Baku
Dish No. 97: The Captain’s Daughter From Saltie
Dish No. 96: Bun Bo Hue From Thanh Da
Dish No. 95: The Beauty From Mile End
Dish No. 94: Potato, Egg, and Provolone on a Roll at Torrisi Italian Specialties
Dish No. 93: The Terrine Board at the Breslin Bar and Dining Room
Dish No. 92: Sausage and Egg Breakfast at La Bonbonniere
Dish No. 91: Roasted Carrots at Porchettta

Dish No. 90: Spicy Miso Ramen at Ramen Setagaya
Dish No. 89: Peanut Butter Pretzel Pie From First Prize Pies
Dish No. 88: Brown Butter, Corn, and Mushroom Linguine at Buttermilk Channel
Dish No. 87: Katsudon at Ennju
Dish No. 86: Fried Chicken With Two Sides at Soul Fixins
Dish No. 85: Fried Lamb Intestines at El Quinto Pino
Dish No. 84: Kunafa From Nablus Sweets
Dish No. 83: Potato Flatbread at Sahadi’s
Dish No. 82: Chicken-Fried Chicken Livers at Cornbread Diner
Dish No. 81: Taleggio, Broccoli Rabe, and Sausage Panini at Bocca Lupo

Dish No. 80: Hamburger at M. Wells in Long Island City
Dish No. 79: Vanilla Malted at Brooklyn Farmacy
Dish No. 78: Seafood Combo With Hot Sauce From Randazzo’s Clam Bar
Dish No. 77: Fried Ipswich Clams at Ed’s Lobster Bar
Dish No. 76: Banh Uot Thit Nuong (Grilled Pork and Noodles) at Co Ba
Dish No. 75: Schiacciata con l’Uva at Sullivan Street Bakery
Dish No. 74: Cornish Pasty at Myers of Keswick
Dish No. 73: Baklava at Güllüoglu
Dish No. 72: Sauerkraut Noodles at 8th Avenue Noodles
Dish No. 71: The Super Heebster at Russ & Daughters

Dish No. 70: Grilled Octopus at Thistle Hill Tavern
Dish No. 69: Firefly Squid at Momokawa
Dish No. 68: Chicken Mole Enchiladas at Tulcingo Del Valle
Dish No. 67: Fish ‘n’ Chips at Sel de Mer
Dish No. 66: Whole Grilled Striped Bass at Okeanos
Dish No. 65: Spinach Pie at Paradis To-Go
Dish No. 64: Frisée aux Lardons With Tripe at Má Pêche
Dish No. 63: Pickle Dog at Bark Hot Dogs
Dish No. 62: ‘Cue Coriander Bacon at Fatty ‘Cue
Dish No. 61: No. 12 Sandwich at Press 195

Dish No. 60: Cheeseburger at Shake Shack
Dish No. 59: Fish Tacos at Pinche Taqueria
Dish No. 58: Raw Oysters at Grand Central’s Oyster Bar
Dish No. 57: Bot Chien Trieu Chau at Tu Do
Dish No. 56: Market Vegetable Salad at Strong Place
Dish No. 55: Tofah e Zameen at Tamarind Tribeca
Dish No. 54: Grandaisy Bakery’s Panino Greco
Dish No. 53: Veal Chop Smoked in Hay at Eataly’s Manzo
Dish No. 52: Salta at Yemen Cafe
Dish No. 51: Migas at the General Greene

Dish No. 50: Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese From Sigmund Pretzel Shop
Dish No. 49: Chicken Tinga Huarache at Cholula Bella Deli
Dish No. 48: The Sabich at Taïm
Dish No. 47: General Poke-Her-Face Prawns at Xiao Ye
Dish No. 46: Pastrami Sandwich at This Little Piggy
Dish No. 45: Smoked Trout Sandwich at Peels
Dish No. 44: Smoked Fish Platter at Blue Ribbon
Dish No. 43: “The Tongue Experience” at Takashi
Dish No. 42: Chicken Fried Steak With Cream Gravy at Cowgirl Hall of Fame
Dish No. 41:French fries with especial sauce at Pommes Frites
Dish No. 40: Tabla Frankie Cart’s Roasted Vegetable Frankie
Dish No. 39: Sea Intestines at M & T Restaurant
Dish No. 38: Fried Calamari at Casa Calamari